Handbags

The 10 Most Iconic Types of Chanel Handbags

Chanel bags are among the most aspirational accessories in the fashion world. Learn about iconic types of Chanel handbags here.

By 

Meyme Nakash

 |  September 30, 2024

In 1910, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel opened a hat boutique in Paris called Chanel Modes and started building a reputation among the rich and famous for her fashionable millinery. Fast-forward to today, and Chanel is one of the most iconic brands in the world, with a storied history. While hats are no longer its main focus, the fashion house continues to channel the founder’s daring spirit into all its designs — namely, its handbags. 

Chanel bags are some of the most iconic handbags in the world, prized for their timelessness. Each handbag is a unique combination of the maison’s sartorial codes, including the classic quilt pattern, leather, and chain strap — and, of course — the double C turn-lock closure (which we discuss further in the Classic Flap Bag section).

The classic quilt is Chanel’s signature diamond pattern, and the chevron quilt (which is relatively newer) is bold and geometric with diagonal lines. The main leather variants of these handbags are calfskin, lambskin, and sometimes caviar leather (a durable, pebbled calfskin resembling the fine edible delicacy). However, the fashion house releases new variations of its staple models every season in different materials, including exotic skins. Chanel also offers a métiers d’art collection, comprising one-off handbags with intricate beading, embellishments, and sometimes printed fabrics or treated leather. These styles are considered collectors’ bags and should be viewed as wearable art.

Here, we delve into the most iconic types of Chanel handbags and what makes them so unique, including their inspiration, design elements, and significance for the fashion house. 

In This Article

• 2.55 Bag
• Classic 11.12 Handbag
• Flap Bag With Top Handle
• Chanel 22 Bag
• Chanel 31 Bag
• Chanel 19 Bag
• Chanel Tote Bags
• Chanel Boy Bag
• Nano Shopping Bag
• Chanel Novelty Bags

The 10 Most Iconic Types of Chanel Handbags

2.55 Bag

In February 1955, Chanel made history when it introduced the 2.55 bag. At the time, women’s handbags had only top handles, so the 2.55 bag’s shoulder strap was considered revolutionary. Coco Chanel conceptualized this elegant bag out of her desire to free women’s hands and allow them to move comfortably. Chanel frequently names its bags after the dates of their release, as in the case of the 2.55 bag.

The 2.55 bag is not to be confused with the 2.55 Reissue, which Chanel released in February 2005 to celebrate the bag’s 50th anniversary. The original 2.55 has a metal chain strap that you can wear exclusively over the shoulder. The 2.55 Reissue, however, features the brand’s signature adjustable leather and chain strap that you can wear over the shoulder or as a crossbody. Moreover, the 2.55 bag originally had one exterior flap, known as a single flap. The updated version additionally has an interior flap, called a double flap, to protect one’s belongings from falling out. The brand discontinued single-flap bags in 2014, but you can still purchase a vintage one on the secondhand market. 

The 2.55 bag has a rectangular Mademoiselle turn-lock closure that was originally plated in 24K gold. In 2008, Chanel replaced gold-plated hardware with gold-, silver-, light gold-, and black-toned metal. Other bag features include a leather lining, a hidden zipper pocket on the external flap (meant for love letters), two interior inserts with a dedicated nook for lipstick, and a pocket on the back of the bag. At retail, the price of a medium classic leather 2.55 Reissue bag is $10,800, earning Chanel’s reputation as one of the most expensive purse brands. Pre-owned 2.55 Reissue bags typically cost around $6,250, since they’re not as popular anymore compared with the Classic Flap bag.

Classic 11.12 Handbag

The Classic Flap bag is arguably the most iconic type of Chanel handbag. Karl Lagerfeld, the late artistic director of Chanel, launched this reenvisioned version of the 2.55 bag in the 1980s to modernize the brand and revive its influence after Coco Chanel’s passing in 1971. In spring 2021, Chanel renamed it the Classic 11.12 handbag after the Classic Flap bag’s original style code: A01112; these names refer to the same model and are used interchangeably in the industry.

Lagerfeld’s 2.55 bag reinterpretation has two major distinctions: the double C turn-lock closure and the leather and chain strap. Although Lagerfeld didn’t invent the double C logo, he’s certainly responsible for making it recognizable everywhere. The Classic 11.12 bag originally came in a single- or a double-flap version, although Chanel stopped producing single flaps in 2014. It was made of supple lambskin leather, which was an uncommon handbag material at the time. Today, lambskin leather is still one of the most popular versions of the bag, along with caviar leather. According to Judy Taylor, president and CEO of Madison Avenue Couture, a reseller specializing in the highest quality Chanel handbags, “Caviar [leather] maintains a greater value than lambskin over time because it’s more durable”— especially in the case of vintage bags. 

It has a leather lining, a hidden zipper pocket on the external flap, two interior inserts with a dedicated nook for lipstick, and a pocket on the back of the bag. It’s available in mini, small, medium, jumbo/large, and maxi sizes. A medium leather Classic 11.12 handbag, the most popular size, is $10,800 at retail. You’ll pay up to a $2,000 increase for a pre-owned, excellent-condition Classic 11.12 handbag. Prices for this bag have skyrocketed over the past decade due to its immense popularity.

Flap Bag With Top Handle

After Chanel saw how well-received the Classic Flap bag was, it created new renditions that retained its silhouette and main features. In 2015, the fashion house introduced the Flap Bag With Top Handle, nicknamed the Coco Handle. Unbeknownst to many, the addition of a top handle was somewhat ironic since Coco Chanel created the bag’s predecessor as a means of escaping bags that required women to hold them with their hands. This bag initially faced some criticism for its resemblance to the Kelly, one of the most iconic types of Hermès handbags. However, it slowly gained popularity over the years and is now one of the most in-demand Chanel handbags. 

The bag has a removable interwoven leather chain strap, a leather top handle, and clou (metal feet that protect the bottom from scratching). The silhouette is slightly tapered, a significant departure from the rectangular Classic Flap bag. It has a double C turn-lock closure and comes in either classic or chevron quilt. It is available in four sizes: mini, small, medium, and large. The most popular sizes are mini and medium, which, respectively, sell for $5,600 and $6,200 in boutiques. The number of pockets the Coco Handle has depends on the size. For example, the mini version has one small slip pocket, and the medium size has a center zipper pocket, two slide pockets in the front, and a zipper pocket in the back. 

Chanel 22 Bag

The Chanel 22 bag debuted at the brand’s spring-summer 2022 ready-to-wear show. Virginie Viard, who succeeded Lagerfeld as the maison’s artistic director from 2019 to 2024, created it out of her desire for a lightweight, functional bag that was still elegant. At first, its sack-like appearance shocked people. They didn’t recognize the boxy silhouette, but they were definitely intrigued. Today, almost everyone wants to get their hands on a Chanel 22 because of how functional and versatile it is. 

This style is often confused for a tote bag because of its boxy silhouette. In Taylor’s eyes, however, it’s a “youthful bag that is all about freedom and streetwear charm.” The Chanel 22 is made of calfskin leather, although there are limited editions in fun materials such as denim and tweed. It utilizes Chanel’s classic quilt but with a larger diamond pattern, adding to its loosely structured look. The Chanel 22 has an interwoven leather chain strap with a Chanel “coin” charm and Chanel letters on the front. Some versions have these letters in acrylic, but most come in gold- or silver-toned hardware. 

Inside, connected to the bag, there’s a pouch for keys and other small belongings. The Chanel 22 comes in four sizes: mini, small, medium, and large. The medium and large sizes are ideal for travel and work because they’re so spacious, and they sell for $5,500 and $5,800, respectively. The bag also comes in a backpack version. 

Chanel 31 Bag

Lagerfeld designed the Chanel 31 for the brand’s fall-winter 2018 collection. He named it after the address of Coco Chanel’s apartment and studio, located at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris. The tongue-in-cheek name is also a nod to the French expression “Se metro sur son 31,” which means “dressed to the nines.” The Chanel 31 is a reinterpretation of an archival handbag with similar qualities to a tote bag. 

The Chanel 31 is set apart from other types of Chanel handbags because it can be worn in three ways. You can carry it in hand, on the shoulder, or folded over as a clutch (although doing so risks creasing the leather). The body of the bag is in the brand’s classic quilt pattern, and the top and bottom sections of the bag are unquilted. It has a double C turn-lock closure, a leather rope strap, and an interwoven leather chain strap. Inside, it has one zipper pocket on the rear wall. The Chanel 31 sizes include nano, mini, small, medium, large, and extra large; the most popular versions are the mini and medium sizes. The price range of the Chanel 31 is between $5,000 and $5,700.

Chanel 19 Bag

Lagerfeld and Viard, his successor, designed the Chanel 19 bag in collaboration. Chanel released it as part of its fall-winter collection just after Lagerfeld passed away. Similar to the 2.55 bag, the Chanel 19 was named after the year of its debut, marking a significant transitional period for the brand. It inherited many elements from the 2.55 bag but showcases them in a more casual and playful light. 

The Chanel 19 is known for its large diamond quilt pattern that gives it a soft silhouette with rounded edges. It has a shoulder strap and top handle featuring a chain that mixes silver, gold, and ruthenium (dark gray) hardware. The shoulder strap is interwoven with leather, whereas the top handle is not. This bag has a double C turn-lock closure constructed in the brand’s signature interwoven leather chain. It has a fabric lining and one interior zipper pocket on the rear wall. There’s also a large pocket on the back of the bag. You can wear the Chanel 19 as a clutch, over the shoulder, or in hand using the top handle — making it an incredibly versatile everyday accessory. A large classic leather Chanel 19 bag costs $7,300 at retail. 

Chanel Tote Bags

Tote bags are some of the most iconic types of Chanel handbags. An especially desirable style in this category is the Grand Shopping Tote (GST), which launched in the 1990s. It features the fashion house’s classic quilting, interwoven chain strap, and double C motif, which is stitched on the bag’s body. While many adored this elegant tote bag for its spacious and compartmentalized interior, Chanel discontinued it in 2015. However, the brand still offers various handbags that are inspired by archival designs. This tote bag is one such example: While it doesn’t have the double C motif stitching, it retains the classic quilt pattern and interwoven chain strap — making it a more modern version of the GST.

Another iconic style is the Deauville tote bag, named after Coco Chanel’s first-ever boutique, located in Deauville, France. Chanel released it in 2012, and it has remained one of its most popular styles to this day. Its silhouette is a cross between a beach bag and a shopping bag. It has two top handles made of leather and two leather and chain straps, allowing you to carry it in hand or over the shoulder. Inside, it has a large zipper pocket and a clasp for keys. The Deauville’s body has a double C logo as well as the address “31 rue Cambon” written on the front. The signature version of this bag comes in canvas, but it is offered in various materials that change by the season. This bag comes in mini, small, medium, and large sizes. A classic fabric or canvas Deauville bag costs between $4,700 and $5,400. 

Chanel Boy Bag

In 2011, the fashion house released the Boy bag, naming it after Coco Chanel’s nine-year love affair with a polo player named Arthur “Boy” Capel. Lagerfeld’s mission when designing the bag was to push the boundaries of feminine style to channel Coco Chanel’s boyish attitude. The result? A bulkier version of the 2.55 bag that has remained a classic to this day. “There was a modern aesthetic of the Boy bag that contrasted perfectly with the 2.55,” says Ambria Mische, SVP of Buying and Merchandising at What Goes Around Comes Around, a luxury boutique in New York City with a large collection of vintage Chanel handbags. In other words, the Boy bag added an edgy, alternative handbag to Chanel’s extensive portfolio — showcasing the brand’s stylistic versatility and mastery of design. 

The Boy bag follows the traditional quilt pattern of its predecessors, only its body is framed with three straight edges. There are also versions of the bag with chevron quilting for an even more contemporary look. It has a brick double C lock that many people compare to a Lego. The bag’s flap covers the entire surface area of the bag rather than stopping three quarters of the way, as with the 2.55 and Classic Flap bag. Inside, it has one interior slip pocket on the rear wall. It has a fabric lining, which makes it lighter than its predecessors. This type of Chanel handbag comes in small, medium, and large. The most popular size is medium, which costs $6,900 at retail. 

Nano Shopping Bag

Mische describes the Nano Shopping bag as “a natural evolution from the shoulder bag” in light of the top handle bag’s resurgence. It’s based on an archival design called the Chanel Kelly that launched in the 1980s, dubbed after the late Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco. The Chanel Kelly is a rare vintage bag that’s extremely in demand among collectors. This is one reason why the Nano Shopping bag has become so hard to obtain in such a short amount of time since its release. 

The main leather variants of the Nano Shopping bag are calfskin and lambskin, although it also comes in alligator, along with other limited-edition materials. It has a trapezoidal silhouette and a thick leather top handle. This type of Chanel handbag has a classic quilt pattern and a tab flap with a double C turn-lock closure. It is lined with leather and has an internal zipper and slip pocket. This handbag comes with a detachable leather and chain strap that you can wear over the shoulder or as a crossbody. It’s available in two sizes: mini and nano. The mini size is more of a statement bag, whereas the nano is more spacious and convenient for daily wear. A Nano Shopping bag typically costs between $4,400 and $4,600 at retail. 

Chanel Novelty Bags

In addition to its line of classics, Chanel offers a wide variety of limited-edition bags that are frequently inspired by objects. Generally, they’re one-offs that sometimes reappear in later seasons. The most iconic types of Chanel handbags within this category include the Camera, Heart, Duma, and Vanity bags.

The Camera bag is a vintage style from the 1980s that’s modeled after the cases that hold photographers’ equipment. Today, Chanel offers an updated version of the bag with a more utilitarian design for $5,500; it has a front and back zip pocket along with two snap-closure side compartments. Another novelty bag is the CC in Love Heart bag, which Chanel released during the Covid-19 pandemic and which costs between $4,500 and $8,775 on the secondhand market. At the time, some found it slightly kitschy, but many people appreciated its romanticism. 

The Duma bag is a vintage style that has held people’s attention since its release in the 1990s. In 2019, Chanel launched the Duma Reissue, which retains the original’s backpack silhouette but has a double C turn-lock closure on its front exterior pocket and leather and chain straps. The Vanity bag is another novelty style with cult status, inspired by the toiletry bags in which women carried their beauty products during the 1920s. Other notable novelty handbags that achieved icon status include the star bag and the tennis bag. 

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