Style

The History of Balmain, From Couture to Today’s Balmain Army

Balmain has played a tremendous role in revolutionizing French style. Learn more about the history of Balmain here.

By 

Meyme Nakash

 |  April 11, 2025

Balmain is one of today’s leading fashion houses, known for its unapologetically over-the-top designs, but many people aren’t familiar with its backstory. In 1945, after Paris was liberated from Nazi control, French couturier Pierre Balmain made it his mission to contribute to the city’s cultural rebirth by establishing his namesake fashion house. He presented his first collection the same year and it marked a groundbreaking return to close-fitting garments (fabric restrictions during the war made loose-fitting clothes the norm)— notably, two years ahead of Christian Dior’s iconic New Look. Balmain quickly became a powerhouse, defining the post-war French style called Jolie Madame, or “pretty woman” in French (also the name of its first women’s fragrance, which you’ll read more about below). This aesthetic involves dressing in a way that’s disruptive but unmistakably elegant.

Today, Balmain’s creative director Olivier Rousteing honors the founder’s legacy by continuing to empower women through beautiful clothes. His unique approach leans into power dressing — a style from the 1970s through 1980s emphasizing voluminous, tailored clothing — but with a feminine twist, often through sequins, golden buttons, and crystal embellishments.

Here, we dive into the rich history of Balmain, starting with Pierre Balmain’s background and making our way to the maison today. Along the way, we’ll discuss Balmain’s evolution and leadership over the years, providing a clear timeline for easy reference. 

In This Article 

• What Is Balmain, and What Is Balmain Known for?
• Who Started Balmain?
• How Did Balmain Start?
• Balmain Today

The History of Balmain

What Is Balmain, and What Is Balmain Known for?

As mentioned, Balmain is a French luxury fashion house founded by Pierre Balmain in 1945. The maison is known for creating opulent men’s and women’s clothes that showcase impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail through expert tailoring. Balmain also has fragrance, accessory, and hair collections, each channeling its core belief of empowering individuals to take risks, whether in fashion or their personal and professional lives. 

Balmain is also famous for its long history of dressing celebrities. Throughout the 1950s, it dressed stars such as Ava Gardner and Brigitte Bardot for important red carpet events, leading Balmain to become a household name. Marlene Dietrich famously selected Balmain pieces to wear in the film No Highway to the Sky (1951) because of how its style aligned with the glamorous Hollywood star she played in the movie. Another prominent client was Katharine Hepburn, who wore a custom Balmain dress made of silk with embroidered flowers for her run as the character Epifania in the play La Milliardaire (1952), at the New Theatre in London’s West End. Years later, Balmain also created a bespoke look for Italian actress Sophia Loren to wear in the film adaptation, The Millionairess (1960).

Even now, Balmain designs often grace important red carpet events, from the Oscars to the Met Gala. 

Who Started Balmain?

Pierre Alexandre Claudius Balmain, the man behind the legendary fashion house, was born on May 18, 1914, in southeast France. His father owned a wholesale drapery business, and his mother worked at a fashion boutique. Growing up, he attended school in the Alpine town of Chambéry, where he often observed society women and how they dressed, planting the seed for his interest in couture. In 1933, he moved to Paris to study architecture at the École des Beaux-Arts. During this time, he worked with fashion designer Robert Piguet — also known for training Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy — to design clothes as a freelancer. Unbeknownst to him, this opportunity would lead Pierre down the path of one day leading his own fashion house.

How Did Balmain Start?

In 1934, British fashion designer Edward Molyneux offered Pierre his first official job in fashion. Four years later, Pierre left the House of Molyneux to work with French couturier Lucien Lelong in 1939, and again from 1941 to 1945. While there, he became close with Christian Dior, who also worked at the maison. In fact, when Pierre left Lucien Lelong in 1945 to start his eponymous label, he approached Dior about a potential partnership. While Dior originally showed interest in starting a fashion house with Pierre, he eventually decided against the idea, and the two parted ways, ending their friendship. 

Below, you’ll find the most important events in the history of Balmain, from its establishment until now. 

1945

In 1945, Pierre Balmain founded the House of Balmain and released its first collection, focusing on body-conscious attire, which starkly contrasted with the utilitarian styles that women donned during World War II. The garments emphasized classic feminine silhouettes, including mid-length, bell-shaped skirts that defined the waist. His debut collection helped popularize the idea of the Jolie Madame style, and was praised in Vogue for its wearability. 

1953

In 1953, Balmain released its first women’s fragrance, called Jolie Madame after the fashion house’s signature aesthetic. French perfumer Germaine Cellier was the nose behind this perfume, which came in eau de toilette and parfum concentrations. It had earthy notes of oak moss, patchouli, and vetiver — straying from the predominantly floral women’s perfumes at the time. 

1966

Balmain expanded into menswear in 1966. The first collection incorporated the house’s signature style through tailoring, specifically with slim-fit suit jackets. Although its menswear debut was not as groundbreaking as its first women’s wear line, it set the foundation for the maison’s future in this category. 

1974

In 1974, the brand established Balmain Hair Couture, which initially focused on creating wigs. Pierre Balmain started the brand with Dick Guliker, a Dutch wigmaker, because wigs were a popular accessory in the 1960s and 1970s. Years later, the brand transitioned to creating hair products, including luxury shampoos and conditioners. 

1982

After Pierre Balmain’s death in 1982, Danish designer and Pierre’s right-hand man since 1951 Erik Mortensen, took over the maison. During his tenure, Mortensen maintained Pierre’s vision of creating elevated evening wear and progressive daywear. 

1982

In 1982, Mortensen appointed French designer Peggy Huynh Kinh, who previously worked for the legendary French couturier Madame Grès, as artistic director of Balmain’s women’s ready-to-wear. She helped Mortensen channel his approach to haute couture into ready-to-wear clothes that helped expand the brand’s reach and influence. 

1990

Mortensen left Balmain in 1990, and his assistant of two years, French-American designer Hervé Pierre, took over as director of haute couture and ready-to-wear. During his short time at Balmain, Hervé Pierre introduced contemporary elements into the brand’s collections, playing with bolder silhouettes and modern fabrics — a departure from the house’s traditional aesthetic. 

1992

Oscar de la Renta replaced Pierre in 1992, a pivotal moment in the history of Balmain. He helped bring a fresh perspective to Balmain’s signature style while remaining true to its design codes. His collections focused on clean lines and understated elegance rather than gaudy couture, closely resembling Pierre Balmain’s vision for the brand. 

2005

In 2005, Balmain named French designer Christophe Decarnin, who previously directed Paco Rabanne for seven years, its new creative director. Decarnin drew in a younger audience to the brand with flashy clothes, shying away from classic designs to help develop the commercial success of the brand. 

2011

Olivier Rousteing succeeded Decarnin in 2011. Rousteing has worked for Balmain since 2009, and previously held a designer position for five years at Roberto Cavalli. Rousteing redirected the label to embrace its French roots and add Asian design influences, including floral and geometric patterns. Today, he still resides as creative director of the brand (you can read more about modern-day Balmain in this section). 

2016

Balmain stages its first men’s runway show. Rousteing was behind the decision to spotlight menswear separately from its women’s wear line, as the brand had done previously. He felt that the women’s clothes often overshadowed the men’s at runway shows. The spring 2016 collection showcased a military aesthetic and desert-inspired color palette, including combat boots, bomber jackets, and backpacks. 

2017

Balmain introduced its accessory line in 2017, offering sunglasses, costume jewelry, belts, and more. This collection not only completes the Balmain lifestyle, but it also acts a gateway to the brand for many who can’t yet afford the brand’s ready-to-wear — increasing its outreach. 

2018

Olivier Rousteing spearheaded the decision to update Balmain’s logo and monogram. The new, minimalist font and BP logo debuted in 2018. This change took effect after 80 years of the company’s previous branding, marking an important moment in the history of Balmain. The brand has incorporated the new logo into a pattern it uses in many designs, such as its B-Buzz handbag series.

2023

In 2023, a van with 50 Balmain designs destined for the spring/summer 2024 show was robbed right before Paris Fashion Week. Rousteing led his team to remake the entire collection in less than 10 days, yielding a line flooded with rose-inspired elements. This remarkable turnaround and emphasis on roses was an act of resilience, channeling a poem by Gertrude Stein, Pierre Balmain’s close friend, which says, “A rose is a rose is a rose.” Ultimately, Rousteing’s message was that Balmain remained unchanged despite the hardship it faced at the time. 

Balmain Today

Although Rousteing certainly honors Balmain’s legacy, he’s contemporized the brand in numerous ways. The most obvious change is his integration of angular cutouts and maximalist patterns into the brand’s aesthetic. He’s also responsible for Balmain’s digital presence through his Balmain Army campaign. Using Pierre Balmain’s rebellious attitude as a springboard, Rousteing developed an online community of individuals who share the brand’s progressive values. Models, influencers, and other figures, head the campaign, pushing the needle regarding Balmain’s global reach. Rousteing’s tremendous impact on the brand has helped shape not only the history of Balmain but also its bright future. 

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