Diamond

The Different Cuts of Diamond: How to Choose the Best Shape for You

Our guide to the different cuts of diamond will help you find the perfect shape for any type of jewelry. 

By 

Meyme Nakash

 |  September 30, 2025

Whether you’re shopping for an engagement ring or leaning into one of the latest jewelry trends that showcase gemstones, selecting the right diamond cut can be daunting — especially since there are so many to choose from. Whether it’s the dazzling sparkle of a round brilliant or the architectural elegance of an emerald cut, a diamond’s shape offers more than just aesthetics; it tells a story of innovation, artisanship, and personal style. 

Here, we explore the fascinating world of diamond shapes, starting with an overview of the main types of cuts and then delving into the most popular subtypes within each category. By learning about the origins and characteristics of the different cuts of diamond, you’ll grasp the ways in which they affect a stone’s light performance and overall appearance, helping you make the right decision for your next piece of diamond jewelry.

The Different Cuts of Diamond

The Types of Diamond Cuts

A diamond cut refers to the silhouette and faceting style of a diamond. This is entirely different from the cut grade of a diamond, one of the four C’s, along with carat weight, color, and clarity (learn more with our ultimate diamond guide). Here, we break down the main categories of diamond cuts that the most popular shapes fall under. 

Brilliant Cut

Brilliant cut is the most traditional diamond faceting style, created as a way of optimizing the brilliance, or sparkle, of a diamond. Belgian gemologist Marcel Tolkowsky invented the modern brilliant cut in 1919, establishing the ideal proportions to maximize a diamond’s light reflection. This cut features 58 (or 57 if there’s no cutlet, the tip of the pavilion) facets, with 33 on the crown (top) and 25 on the pavilion (the pointed bottom of a diamond). These facets reflect and refract light in a way that yields exceptional sparkle, or “fire,” as industry experts also call it. 

The original cut has a round outline with a symmetrical, cone shape that enables light to enter the diamond and bounce internally before exiting through the top, enhancing its luminosity. Though jewelers initially designed the brilliant cut for round diamonds, they’ve adapted the facet pattern over the years to a variety of shapes, including oval, pear, and marquise diamonds — referred to as modified brilliant cuts. Thanks to its optimized sparkle, the brilliant cut is the most popular choice for engagement rings and diamond pieces where light performance is paramount.

Step Cut 

Step cut offers a sleek, geometric appearance. It focuses on the diamond’s clarity, symmetry, and understated elegance rather than intense sparkle. Unlike brilliant cut, which implements triangular or kite-shaped facets, step cut has rectangular or trapezoidal facets arranged in parallel rows, similar to a staircase — hence its name. Cutters typically set these facets horizontally along the crown and pavilion of a diamond, creating a hall-of-mirrors effect with long flashes of light. Its clean lines and architectural appeal evoke the geometry that helped define the Art Deco movement, making it a beloved choice for those who appreciate a vintage aesthetic. Since step cut reveals more of a diamond’s internal characteristics, the clarity of the diamond plays a crucial role in its appearance. Another important detail to keep in mind about step-cut diamonds is that they have fewer facets than brilliant-cut diamonds, which means they also have less fire.

Mixed Cut

Simply put, mixed cut combines elements of both brilliant cuts and step cuts to yield a diamond that balances sparkle with structure. This hybrid style usually features brilliant-cut facets on the crown of a diamond to maximize its sparkle, and the pavilion incorporates step-cut facets for added depth. Mixed cuts often appear in fancy shapes (which we discuss in depth here), with the radiant cut being a fabulous example of this technique (read more below). These diamonds have a more dynamic appearance than traditional step cuts, while maintaining the structured outline and a slightly larger face-up appearance. By blending these two distinct types of cuts, mixed cuts offer the best of both worlds, appealing to those who favor both sparkle and refinement when it comes to a stone.

Round Cuts

Round cuts are the most popular diamond shape today. This category comprises diamonds with a circular outline that come in brilliant and non-brilliant faceting styles. 

Round Brilliant Cut

Known for its exceptional sparkle and timeless appeal, the round brilliant cut is the most iconic and popular diamond shape. It has 57 or 58 facets, the optimal number to maximize a diamond’s brilliance, or light reflection, to give it that coveted glittering appearance. Its circular outline, cone-like pavilion, and faceted crown are engineered to return the maximum amount of light through the top of the diamond, making it the most scintillating diamond cut. However, this comes at a cost. Since the cut holds most of the diamond’s weight in its depth rather than its face-up surface area, it may appear smaller than shallower cuts. Therefore, if you want to strike the perfect balance between sparkle and size, you’ll need a round brilliant-cut diamond with a higher carat weight.

Old European Cut

Taylor Swift’s engagement ring has sparked a widespread interest in the old European cut — also called an old mine cut — a 19th-century style that was popular during the Art Deco period. Still, collectors and those who appreciate vintage-style jewelry have been seeking out old-European-cut diamonds since well before the artist’s engagement in August 2025, thanks to their antique charm and historical significance. With a round shape, large facets, and an open culet (the bottom point of a diamond), the old European cut predates the modern round brilliant cut. Cutters fashioned old-European-cut diamonds by hand under candlelight, giving them a softer, more romantic sparkle that many appreciate. 

Read More: 22 Celebrity Engagement Rings Shaping Modern Jewelry Trends 

Rose Cut

Invented during the 15th century in India, a rose cut has a flat bottom and a dome-shaped top that’s covered in triangular facets (between 3 and 24), which resemble the petals of a rosebud — hence its name. It was especially popular in the Georgian and Victorian eras in the 16th and 17th centuries, and today, it’s a popular choice among brides looking for a unique engagement ring. It doesn’t have a pavilion, which means it reflects a soft, subtle glow rather than the intense sparkle of modern cuts. Rose-cut diamonds tend to appear larger than their carat weight because of their wide, shallow silhouette. They’re typically found in round-shaped diamonds, but they’re also adapted to oval- and pear-shaped diamonds. 

Square and Rectangular Cuts

Touted for their geometric nature, square and rectangular diamonds all have step-cut faceting, except radiant and princess cuts, which have modified brilliant cuts. 

Emerald Cut

Emerald-cut diamonds have a rectangular shape, step-cut facets, beveled corners, and an open table (the flat top surface of the stone). Unlike brilliant cuts, which emphasize light performance, an emerald cut projects broad flashes of light, thanks to its parallel, linear facets that create a hall-of-mirrors effect. It dates back to the 1500s and was originally developed for emerald gemstones as a means of minimizing chipping during the cutting process, which led to its name. By the 19th century, prestigious jewelers such as Cartier and Harry Winston applied this cutting technique to diamonds, and ever since, individuals have prized it for its elegant, geometric appeal. Its ties to the Art Deco movement, defined by clean lines and interesting shapes, make it an attractive cut for vintage jewelry enthusiasts. 

Read More: The Ultimate Guide to Emerald-Cut Engagement Rings

Asscher Cut

Famous for cutting the Cullinan diamond — the biggest diamond in the world — in 1907, Dutch jewelers and brothers Abraham and Joseph Asscher invented their namesake cut in 1902. The Asscher cut is a square step cut with cropped corners, creating an interesting octagonal shape. Its deep, layered facets, high crown, and small table yield a hall-of-mirrors effect similar to the emerald cut, but with a square shape. Like with most step-cut diamonds, the Asscher cut emphasizes clarity and color over the brilliance of a diamond. It’s an excellent choice for someone who wants a geometric, vintage-inspired diamond cut. 

Cushion Cut

The cushion cut gets its name from its pillowy appearance, a result of its rounded corners. It comes in square or rectangular form (referred to as an elongated cushion), both of which have a vintage appeal but with the sparkle of modern brilliant cuts. Antique cushion-cut diamonds usually have larger facets, yielding a softer sparkle, whereas more recent cushion-cut diamonds embrace the cutting pattern of modern brilliant cuts — offering more fire. A standard cushion cut has 58 facets (arranged differently from a round brilliant cut), and a modified version will have more. Modified cushion cuts have what is called a “crushed ice” sparkle, referring to a dense, irregular cutting pattern that reflects more light than the larger, symmetrical facets of a traditional cushion cut. 

Radiant Cut

The radiant cut is a striking hybrid shape that combines the refined lines of a step cut and the sparkle of a brilliant cut. Invented in 1977, it features a square or rectangular shape with truncated corners and a high number of facets (typically 70), which maximizes its light reflection. It’s the ideal choice for someone who wants a more geometric shape than a round brilliant, but without sacrificing sparkle. 

Princess Cut

Introduced in the 1980s, the princess cut marries the clean, geometric look of a square- or rectangular-shaped diamond with the lively, glittering appearance of a brilliant cut. It typically features 57 or 76 facets, offering excellent light performance, and is an efficient use of rough diamond material, making it more affordable per carat compared with round cuts. A notable drawback of the princess cut is that the pointed corners are prone to chipping, so having a secure setting is imperative when selecting this beautiful modern cut. 

Oval and Elongated Cuts

Oval and elongated cuts have a longer — and, therefore, larger — appearance than round-cut diamonds, among others, which is partly why they’re so popular. Here, we delve into specific cuts within this category.

Oval Cut

An oval-cut diamond is an elongated version of the classic round brilliant cut, delivering impressive fire with 56 to 58 brilliant-style facets. Its symmetrical, oval outline has a slimming effect on the wearer’s finger, plus it creates the illusion of greater size, making it a popular choice for engagement rings. The cut grade of an oval-cut diamond plays a vital role in its appearance. If you’re shopping for oval-cut diamonds, keep an eye out for the bow-tie effect — a dark shadow that can appear across the stone’s center in poorly cut oval diamonds. 

Marquise Cut

A marquise cut has pointed ends and curved sides, with 56 to 58 brilliant-style facets. The bold silhouette was invented in the 18th century after King Louis XV of France commissioned it. Legend has it that he requested a shape that resembled the lips of his mistress, Madame de Pompadour. The romantic cut quickly became popular among the French nobility, and today it remains a classic choice for jewelry. Those purchasing marquise-cut diamonds should know that the tips are susceptible to chipping, and as such, we recommend protective settings for this shape. 

Pear Cut

The pear cut, also referred to as the teardrop cut, combines the brilliance of a round cut with the elongated and pointed allure of the marquise cut. It typically has 57 facets with one rounded end that tapers elegantly to a point. This asymmetry has a flattering effect on the hand, making fingers appear longer, as with the case of most elongated cuts. Pear-cut diamonds vary greatly in proportions, ranging from short and wide to long and narrow, allowing you to choose a pear cut that’s unique to your personality and taste. 

Fancy Cuts

Technically, in the diamond world, any diamond that isn’t a round brilliant is a fancy cut — also called a fancy shape. The cuts below, in particular, stand out, thanks to their distinctive outlines. 

Heart Cut 

The heart cut is a romantic and symbolic shape that often appears in sentimental jewelry. It’s a fancy brilliant cut with 56 to 58 facets, arranged in the lovely shape of a modern heart motif. Well-proportioned heart cuts require high precision, especially in the cleft (the inward part at the top) and the two rounded lobes, which must be symmetrical for the shape to be balanced. This means that heart-cut diamonds are typically more expensive than other shapes, as they require more time and highly skilled professionals to cut. Heart-cut diamonds can appear smaller than other shapes of the same carat weight because of their outline and depth, so choosing the right proportions is key. 

Read More: Heart Jewelry for Valentine’s Day and Beyond, 40 Luxury Valentine’s Day Gifts for Him and Her

Baguette Cut

A baguette-cut diamond is sleek and rectangular in shape with a minimalist appeal, making it a common choice for accent stones in jewelry. It features step-cut faceting, usually comprising 14 facets, which lends it a clean, glass-like appearance. It has straight edges, sharp corners, and, sometimes, a slight taper. Baguette-cut diamonds are fabulous for flanking center stones, adding geometric flair to any piece, especially in Art Deco–inspired designs. 

Trillion Cut

The trillion cut (also a trilliant or triangular brilliant cut) showcases a triangular outline and three equal sides that often have a slight outward curve. It typically has 31 to 50 brilliant-style facets, giving off a fiery appearance. The striking silhouette appears in jewelry as both accent and center stones, offering high visual impact. It has a wide, shallow profile, so trillion-cut diamonds appear larger than other cuts of the same carat weight. Its pointed corners can be delicate and, therefore, may require more protective settings.

Lozenge Cut

The lozenge cut forms a rhombus (diamond) shape with pointed corners. It features trapezoidal facets in step arrangement, rather than a brilliant pattern. This unique cut offers a sleek look with an Art Deco feel, thanks to its interesting geometry and vintage aesthetic — making it a fabulous choice for those who want an unconventional cut. A traditional lozenge-cut diamond showcases an equal-sided rhombus, whereas a hexagonal lozenge-cut diamond appears more elongated, with straight sides on the top and bottom rather than points. 

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