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Two Tones, One Icon: The Evolution of Chanel Slingbacks

Learn everything there is to know about Chanel slingbacks, from their original design to today’s modern adaptations.  

By 

Meyme Nakash

 |  August 18, 2025

Few shoes embody effortless elegance like the Chanel slingback. In 1957, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel collaborated with the legendary French shoemaker Raymond Massaro to create the now-iconic two-tone heel. It was revolutionary at the time because of its elasticized slingback strap, which made it both flattering and wearable. The original design featured a beige body that elongated the legs and a black cap toe that created the illusion of smaller feet, which was desirable at the time. The shoes were instantly celebrated for their versatility, earning a place in the wardrobes of some of the most stylish women of that era, including such icons as Brigitte Bardot and Jackie Kennedy.

Decades later, the legendary Karl Lagerfeld reintroduced the heel in Chanel’s fall/winter 2015 collection, collaborating once again with the Massaro atelier to breathe new life into the shoe. Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel from 1983 until his passing in 2019, left behind a legacy of preserving the maison’s heritage while also reinventing it for the modern generation. Under his leadership, Chanel slingbacks were transformed from a vintage relic to a contemporary fashion staple. 

Here, we share the history and cultural impact of Chanel slingbacks and delve into the different adaptations of the shoe since its revival. 

The History of Chanel Slingbacks

In the late 1950s and early ’60s, Chanel slingbacks weren’t just a trendy new shoe. Rather, they were a response to the rigid, hyperfeminine ideals that dominated postwar fashion. This return to glamour and extravagance was largely because of Christian Dior’s New Look, a style that debuted in 1947, which emphasized a cinched waist, rounded shoulders, and a voluminous, long skirt. Following World War II, Chanel returned to the fashion scene in Paris, determined to modernize women’s clothing and reclaim her position in the industry. 

Slingbacks were an integral part of carrying out her mission. Their modest block heel and wearability stood in stark contrast to the stiletto — a shoe with a razor-thin heel and pointed toe that exaggerated traditional notions of femininity — making it the perfect companion to the New Look. By comparison, Chanel slingbacks were grounded and utilitarian. They were designed to be lived in, not merely looked at. This contrast wasn’t just about aesthetics; it was also about women’s roles in society. 

At a time when women were exploring their professional ambitions, Chanel slingbacks offered a look that was polished yet practical. By liberating its wearers from impractical, elaborately designed shoes, the slingbacks became a symbol of the more modern, independent woman — aligning with Chanel’s broader vision of femininity, characterized by ease and confidence. Today, Chanel slingbacks remain a timeless accessory that speaks to women of all ages, empowering them through the understated elegance and bodily autonomy they afford. 

Chanel Slingback Heel Heights

Chanel slingbacks are available in a variety of heel heights, each designed to suit different lifestyles and occasions. The most iconic version is the original height, the classic 2.5-inch block heel. Many like this mid-height version for its form and function, deeming it ideal for workwear, daytime events, and streetwear. The house also offers shorter heel heights, including 1.2-inch kitten heels and ballerina-style flat slingbacks, which provide even greater comfort and wearability. These versions are suitable for travel and assembling chic, casual looks. For more formal occasions, higher-heeled slingbacks (between 3.3 and 4 inches) offer a dressier look that still honors the original design. 

Classic Chanel Slingbacks

Since their revival in 2015, Chanel slingbacks have become synonymous with effortless, modern Parisian style. The shoe’s most recognizable feature is the contrast between its beige body and black cap toe. This strategic use of color flatters the leg and foot, with the beige color elongating the leg’s outline and the black cap toe visually shortening the foot for an overall slimming effect. The heritage shoe uses goatskin leather for the body and grosgrain, a tightly ribbed fabric, for the cap toe. Chanel produces seasonal variations of the classic slingbacks, in colors such as blush pink, baby blue, and white, using the same materials.

The slingback strap is a hallmark of the iconic design, sitting gently at the back of the heel. It’s typically elasticized, or sometimes partially adjustable, to ensure comfort and a secure fit. Lagerfeld retained the softly rounded almond toe of the 1957 design, adding a timeless charm to its overall silhouette. He also added a small double-C accent to the heel and reimagined the slingbacks in various materials, including tweed, patent leather, and limited-edition embellishments and fabrics, which we discuss below. Even so, the beige-and-black colorway remains a mainstay in the fashion world, spotted on the feet of celebrities such as Gigi Hadid, Kristen Stewart, and Alexa Chung. 

Tweed Chanel Slingbacks

Tweed Chanel slingbacks are a modern twist on the house’s most iconic shoe, blending the classic two-tone design with the maison’s signature material. Coco Chanel pioneered the use of tweed in women’s wear in the 1920s, shattering fashion conventions by borrowing the material from traditional menswear. During his tenure, Lagerfeld modernized and reintegrated tweed into the maison’s design codes, with tweed Chanel slingbacks being the perfect example of this accomplishment. They preserve the essential features of the original design, and the tweed, typically in vibrant colors, metallic threads, or pastel tones, adds depth and texture. Tweed Chanel slingbacks often retain the grosgrain black cap toe, in addition to leather trims and a lambskin sole. 

Patent Leather Chanel Slingbacks

Patent leather Chanel slingbacks are a sleek, high-shine update to the classic silhouette, infusing the timeless design with a modern edge. They stay true to Coco Chanel’s original proportions but replace the traditional goatskin and grosgrain with glossy patent leather for a more striking appearance. The style usually comes in neutral colors such as nude, white, black, and blush pink. 

Patent leather has long held significance to the brand. Echoing its bold footwear, Chanel has integrated the material into its most iconic handbags, including the Classic Flap bag and Boy bag. As such, patent leather Chanel slingbacks help facilitate a cohesive narrative across the label’s accessories, which represent the intersection between traditional and modern flair. 

Read More: The 10 Most Iconic Types of Chanel Handbags

Ballerina-Style Chanel Slingbacks

Many people are surprised to learn that Chanel slingbacks predated the classic Chanel ballet flats, the brand’s most popular shoes. Karl Lagerfeld introduced the iconic ballet flats as part of the spring/summer 1984 collection as a rendition of the Chanel slingbacks, retaining only its two-tone scheme. As for the ballerina-style slingbacks, which contain all elements of the original design but with no high heel, they were a part of the brand’s original revival of the heritage shoe in collaboration with the Massaro atelier in 2015.

These shoes marry the refined aesthetic of the original slingbacks with the ease of flat shoes. Unlike Chanel’s classic ballet flats, the ballerina-style slingbacks have an open back and elasticized strap, allowing you to slip them on and off easily, not to mention move freely throughout the day, thanks to their flexible design. They’re perfect for anyone who wants to incorporate the refined aesthetic of the hero style into everyday outfits without the burden of an elevated heel. It’s available in various materials and colors, although the tweed and denim versions are especially popular because of their laid-back appeal. 

Limited-Edition Chanel Slingbacks

Each season, Chanel offers imaginative reinterpretations of the iconic slingbacks, experimenting with different materials, colors, and embellishments. These limited-edition pieces transform the familiar silhouette into strikingly fresh designs that fashion enthusiasts swoon over even when the season is over, often purchasing them on the secondhand luxury market if they weren’t able to snag a pair in-boutique. 

Recent collections have featured Chanel slingbacks crafted from delicate mesh, showcasing a beautiful contrast between the body’s transparent material and the grosgrain or suede cap toes. Denim slingbacks are another standout example because of their casual flair. The house has offered them in faded indigo and washed black denim, sometimes printed with the double-C pattern. Embellished editions of Chanel slingbacks, however, are where the label’s craftsmanship truly shines. The brand applies crystals, pearls, and sequins in intricate patterns all over the shoe’s body, making them statement evening pieces. If you’re looking for more subtle special-edition slingbacks, the brand has also offered versions featuring black lambskin leather and its signature Camellia appliqué, sometimes accompanied by a chic bow. 

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